What is a Fishing Net Called? A Guide to Types, Uses, and Choosing the Right One

You ask, "What is a fishing net called?" and the honest answer is... it depends. There isn't just one name. Walking into a tackle shop and asking for "a fishing net" is like walking into a hardware store and asking for "a tool." You'll get a confused look. The name changes completely based on its design, how you use it, and what you're trying to catch. A net for scooping a bass out of the water has a different name and purpose than a net you throw to catch baitfish. Let's clear up the confusion for good.

Common Types of Fishing Nets and Their Names

Here’s the rundown of the nets you're most likely to encounter, whether you're at a sporting goods store or on the water. I've spent years using (and sometimes misusing) all of these.

That table gives you the quick IDs. Now, let's get into the feel of them.

The Recreational Angler's Toolkit: Landing, Cast, and Dip Nets

If you're fishing for fun, you'll deal with the first three.

A landing net is your endgame tool. Its job is simple: secure the fish you've worked hard to hook. The big mistake I see? Using a net with knotted mesh for toothy fish like walleye or pike. Those knots tear up their slime coat, harming the fish. For catch-and-release, a rubber or coated mesh net is non-negotiable. It's gentler and doesn't get hooks tangled as badly. The size of the hoop matters more than people think. A 20-inch net is useless for a 30-inch fish; it's stressful for you and the fish. Always go bigger than you think you need.

The cast net is an art form. The satisfying *swish-thump* as it opens perfectly over a school of shad is a reward in itself. They're measured by radius (a 6-foot net creates a 12-foot circle). Beginners should start with a 6-foot, 1/2 lb per foot net. It's manageable. The key detail nobody mentions? The "brail lines"—the strings that close the net. Cheap nets use thin, weak line that snaps. Good ones use heavy braided line. If your net isn't closing all the way, your brail lines are probably too long or tangled.

A dip net is the utility player. From scooping up mackerel off a ocean pier to grabbing a crab from a trap, it's all about the long handle. The mesh is often larger and stiffer. I keep a cheap one on my boat just for grabbing floating debris. It's that handy.

Commercial & Specialized Nets: Gill, Trammel, and Seine

You won't buy these at Bass Pro Shops, but you should know what they are.

Gill nets and trammel nets are passive, set nets. The difference is in the catch. A gill net is a single wall; fish get stuck. A trammel net has three layers; fish pocket themselves in a bag of netting, often causing less damage. Both are controversial in recreational zones due to bycatch and ghost fishing (nets lost but still catching). Most states have strict bans or permits for their use. If you're reading this, you almost certainly don't need one.

A seine net is more active. You might see fisheries biologists using a small seine in a stream to survey populations. It's two poles with a net between them, dragged along the bottom. For the avid bait fisherman, a small minnow seine can be a fantastic way to gather your own bait in a pond or backwater.

How to Choose the Right Fishing Net for Your Needs

Let's be honest, the first time you walked into a big-box store's fishing aisle, you probably felt a bit lost. Twenty different nets, all claiming to be the best. Here's my simple decision tree, forged from years of buying the wrong gear first.

Scenario 1: You're a bass, trout, or walleye angler fishing from a boat or shore.
You need a landing net. Now, narrow it down:
- Fish Size: For bass/trout under 5 lbs, an 18" x 20" hoop is fine. For larger pike, muskies, or big catfish, look for a net with a 30" x 36" hoop or bigger.
- Mesh Type: Rubber-coated mesh. Always. It protects fish, doesn't snag hooks, and lasts longer. The cheap green nylon nets are terrible for fish health. Spend the extra $15.
- Handle: For a boat, a 4-6 ft telescopic handle gives you reach. For shore fishing, a shorter handle (2-3 ft) is easier to manage. I prefer a solid one-piece handle for durability; telescopic ones can get wobbly.

Scenario 2: You need live bait for saltwater or freshwater fishing.
You need a cast net or a dip net.
- Water Depth & Bait Size: Fishing shallow marshes for 2-inch shiners? A 4-foot cast net with 1/4" mesh. Fishing deeper channels for 6-inch mullet? An 8-foot net with 3/8" mesh. If the bait is right under a dock, a long-handled dip net might be easier.
- Your Skill Level: Never thrown one? Buy a smaller, lighter net. Practice in a field, not on the water. The learning curve is steep but short.

Scenario 3: You're fishing from a pier, jetty, or steep bank.
You likely need a landing net with a VERY long handle (8-12 feet). This is a specific tool. The net hoop often folds for storage and has a lanyard so you don't drop it in the drink. Don't try to use a short boat net here; you'll lose fish.

The common thread? Match the tool to the specific task. "Fishing" is too vague. Are you landing, catching bait, or dipping?

Fishing Net Materials and Construction: What Actually Matters

Once you know the type, the materials make or break the experience.

Netting/Bag Material:
- Nylon (Knotless or Knotted): Cheap, common, and hard on fish. Hooks snag easily. It absorbs water and gets heavy. I avoid it for landing nets.
- Rubber or PVC-Coated Nylon: The sweet spot. Fish-friendly, hook-resistant, durable. This is what you want for a landing net. It doesn't absorb water.
- Solid Rubber: The premium choice. Incredibly gentle, incredibly hook-proof. Also the most expensive and can be stiff in cold weather.
- Monofilament: Used in cast nets and some seines. It sinks fast (good for cast nets) and is relatively invisible in water.

Frame & Handle:
- Aluminum: Light and strong. Great for most nets. Can bend under extreme stress.
- Carbon Fiber: Very light and stiff. High-end landing net territory. Fantastic if you're hiking to remote spots.
- Wood (Teak/Hardwood): Classic, beautiful, and surprisingly functional. Soaks up shock well. Heavier and needs maintenance.
- Plastic/Composite: Common on cheaper nets. It can be brittle in cold weather. I've snapped a few plastic hoop hinges.

A quick opinion: The handle connection point is a critical failure spot. A net where the handle screws directly into the aluminum hoop often loosens over time. Look for designs with a reinforced collar or a through-bolt system. It's a small detail that adds years to the net's life.

FAQs About Fishing Nets